Outreach clinics?

As our weekends are starting to run out, I find myself saying goodbye to places I have become so very fond of. On Saturday we went to Peponi for the day. I think it is fair to say that it is one of the true ‘havens’ we have found here in Tanzania. A much-needed escape from the testing reality of living and working in Muheza. It is so beautiful and the staff so friendly and welcoming. As I sat looking out to sea waiting for the girls to get ready to leave, I soaked up the beautiful view for that one last time. It would be easy to lose yourself here, to whittle away endless days sitting, dreaming and enjoying such a place. One of Mother Nature’s true gifts to the world.

For my last visit, it was also then fitting perhaps that one of the staff approached me earlier in the day to ask if I could help him. It is certainly true that we are never completely ‘off-duty’ as doctors, anywhere in the world. He had discovered that I was a surgeon and wanted to ask my advice about his recurrent hernia. It had been repaired last year at the local hospital, but the swelling had come back and it was very painful. I was very proud that I could now conduct such a ‘consultation’ so thoroughly on my own in Swahili. A swift examination confirmed what I suspected. A large recurrent hernia. I explained that he could come to Muheza to have it repaired with mesh before I leave. He seemed very receptive to the idea and returned a little while later with the lovely New Zealand manager. It was great to hear her support for such things (and also that she would see if they could help with the payment). Peponi is one of the many businesses in Tanzania that are owned by ‘overseas investors’, and I was pleased to hear that this particular employer felt a significant responsibility for the wellbeing of their Tanzanian staff. I am sure that this is not a universal held position. Having completed that opportunist ‘outreach clinic appointment’, I then had to laugh when he returned with one of his colleagues! Identical problem (although opposite groin). So we now have two members of staff that will be coming to Muheza on Monday!

Rural Traffic!

Sunday was a gentle day with probably my final trip to the Tanga Yacht Club for lunch. In the afternoon we returned to Muheza as we had arranged a visit to ‘Bicycle Man’s shamba (farm). Bicycle Man (as we have come to fondly call him) is the remarkable individual who has no use of his legs having suffered with polio as a child. He is perhaps the epitome of human resourcefulness and determination. The more I think about his predicament, the more in awe of him I become. Perhaps driven by necessity, his ingenuity and sheer grit to overcome his disability is genuinely remarkable. On the list of truly inspiring individuals, he must be right up there. Not least because almost never a minute goes by without a huge smile breaking across his face. He ‘walks’ on his hands (sort of dragging his wasted legs) and gets around on his hand driven tricycle. I watched him diligently climb up into the hospital car unaided (bearing in mind it is a high riding 4x4). He works every day on his very productive shamba and travels to Muheza (nearly an hour on his bike) to visit us, as well as others, at least once per week. He brings gifts of the most delicious fruits, honouring us as friends of K&R who facilitated our time here in Tanzania. He has overcome hardship of a kind that most of us cannot imagine (I am still struggling), but more than that, he thrives.

He is under the leaves if

you look carefully!

His shamba was beautiful. In the hills above Muheza it looks out towards the Usumbara mountains. It is typically African, with crops intermixed and growing in harmony with the other vegetation. To the untrained eye, it might look messy. To the guided observer, it quickly becomes apparent that everything has a place and a role. It was great to show the girls how pineapples actually grow (I remember my surprise when I saw a plant for the first time on my elective in the South Pacific many years ago), orange trees, bananas and many others. Of course we were honoured guests, but both my wife and I struggled to contain our anxiety as his 13 year old nephew scaled an enormous coconut tree (higher than our local climbing wall and must have been about 30m) to one handedly cut down some coconuts with a machete! And in a strong breeze too. He was halfway up before we realised what was happening and it was a huge relief to both of us when he came back down. The fact that he then hacked away the husks of said coconuts with the machete seemed entirely trivial! They were delicious though.

Bicycle Man, Machetes and bananas!

Life in Africa is so very different to life at home in the UK. There are many, many challenges. A huge inequality that should be addressed. But there is a unique beauty too. Whilst there is undoubtedly so much that the ‘western world’ could offer to places like Tanzania, I wonder if, in fact, there is more for the West to learn from it.

People here seem happier.