Tuele Hospital

Saturday, 29 December 2018

‘polepole’, an Authentic African Experience


Vocab: “polepole” means slowly, not to be confused with “pole” which means sorry

So today’s morning mission was to see if I could get the spare tyre fixed with enough time left to head off to Tanga for our planned shopping and swimming trip. After yesterday’s excitement it seemed especially prudent not to leave without a back-up option! I had some trepidation in this task; did I really know exactly where to go to find the ‘tyre garage’, would I be able to communicate what was required (and safely – whatever that might mean, there is definitely a spectrum to this term I am learning) and would I end up paying a fair price? Mulling this over, I went to pick up the car from the hospital (where it is parked for security every night) and, as fortune would have it, I bumped into the hospital superintendent who was heading that way himself and so came with me.

This fortuitous encounter made the whole process much easier and enjoyable. He stayed with me for the whole experience, turning what might have been somewhat frustrating into a very social and informative event. We were given chairs (broken plastic garden chairs stacked in twos to make something that was surprisingly comfortable) at the back of the ‘workshop’ (a high vaulted tin roof atop four high posts) and watched the goings on. Whilst there is clear process to things, nothing happens particularly quickly and so you just have to accept this and enjoy it! It is amazing to watch people work so effectively with a mix of very basic / improvised tools, pure human determination (of the sort that would never be allowed in the UK – ‘health and safety’ would stop that) but with a smattering of some very recognisable modern tools (the high pressure generator with a cylindrical reservoir over a meter in diameter). Unfortunately, the inner tube (these 4x4s have them) was beyond repair and so a new one was needed. Fortunately, a shop just across the road sold them. Unfortunately, it wouldn’t be open until 09.30 as today was the last Saturday of the month and that means its town cleaning day. All across the country on this day every month the shops do not open until 09.30 (normally it would be between 7-8am) to allow cleaning of the streets to take place.

So we waited watching the goings on of a very busy tyre and high pressure air ‘service station’ (glorified hut really, well actually not even a hut). Trucks, busses, cars, motorbikes all swinging by to get their tyres topped up, or air filters blasted, with the occasional puncture to be repaired. By the end of our wait, I think I had worked out who the boss was, who the apprentices were and who the customers were.

We were also treated to some powerline tree maintenance. Which basically involved one tall tree, two chaps with machetes, one flimsy ladder and a huge potential for death / paralysis / major injury. But remarkably they hacked down the required branches under the watchful eye of the foreman (and the required crowd of onlookers / interested parties) without incident. They made surprisingly light work of some pretty hefty branches.

After this wealth of cultural insight / entertainment for me, the tyre was ready and I returned to collect the girls. It was then off to Tanga for food shopping, lunch and a swim. I was also commissioned by Kate to go to buy a cool box for easier transport of our goods. I followed directions to Barabara Nne (Street 4) in the old new (non colonial) part, where most of the shops are. I am getting the hang of Tanga now and from what felt like a completely unnavigable maze of similar chaos just a few weeks ago, I can now recognise some of the subtleties and make my way around. I’m getting my eye in I guess.

It was then lunch, swim and back to Muheza. A very successful day.

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